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What you’ll learn in this post

Exactly when and how to dig up peonies without harming buds

How to divide peonies for more blooms next spring
The right way to store peony roots short term so they don’t rot or dry out
Common mistakes to avoid and quick fixes for any zone

Those lush, nostalgic peony blooms deserve a comeback every spring—and yes, you can move, divide, and even store peonies without losing a single season. Imagine doubling your blooms, gifting divisions to friends, or finally moving that crowded clump—without the fear of set-back. Here’s the confident, step-by-step way to dig up and store peonies (herbaceous and intersectional/Itoh), with smart shortcuts and science-backed tips.

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Why and when to dig up peonies

Best time: Early to mid-fall, once foliage yellows or after a light frost has blackened leaves. In most regions, that’s late September through early November.

Why fall: Peonies are entering dormancy; carbohydrate reserves are packed into the roots, eyes are set for next year, and stress is minimal.
Signs it’s time to dig/divide:
- Fewer or smaller blooms
- Crowded centers with die-out
- You’re relocating beds or improving drainage
- Disease cleanup (removing botrytis-infected crowns)

Quick answers (bookmark this)

Depth for replanting herbaceous peonies: Eyes 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) below soil.

Storage window: Replant immediately if possible; otherwise 3–14 days max.
Storage temperature: 35–45°F (2–7°C), dark, dry to slightly barely-damp medium.
Ideal division: 3–5 eyes with 4–6 inches of healthy storage roots.

Sun: 6–8 hours daily; morning sun + good air flow = fewer disease issues.

Tools you’ll need

Spading fork (preferred) or sharp spade
Clean pruners or a knife (sanitize with 10% bleach or 70% isopropyl)
Tarp or cardboard for lifting and cleaning
Hose or bucket for rinsing soil
Plant labels and a marker
Optional: powdered sulfur or cinnamon for cut surfaces; vermiculite or barely damp peat moss for storage

Step-by-step: How to dig up peonies safely
1) Cut back foliage

After frost or once leaves yellow, cut stems to 2–3 inches. Bag and dispose if diseased—don’t compost. 2) Loosen a wide circle
Start 12–18 inches from the crown and dig down 8–10 inches, lifting gently. Use a fork to avoid slicing roots. 3) Lift and clean

Slide the fork under, lever up, and lift the clump onto a tarp. Shake or hose off soil so you can see eyes (pink/red buds) and storage roots. 4) Inspect
Trim away soft, blackened, or hollow roots. Healthy roots are firm and beige to white inside.

How to divide peonies (for more plants and better bloom)

Goal: Each division should have 3–5 eyes and a healthy fan of storage roots.
Find the natural seams in the crown and use a sanitized knife to split cleanly.
Dust cuts with powdered sulfur (optional) and let divisions air-dry in the shade for 1–3 hours before planting or packing.

The right way to store peony roots (short term) Peonies prefer to be replanted immediately. If that’s not possible, short-term storage works when you keep them cool, slightly moist (not wet), and labeled.

Best method: Wrap divisions in slightly damp (not wet) peat moss or vermiculite and place in a breathable paper bag or a ventilated box.
Temperature: 35–45°F (2–7°C) in a refrigerator or unheated garage that stays above freezing.

Ventilation: Do not seal airtight. Check weekly for mold or drying; refresh medium if needed.
Duration: 3–14 days is ideal; up to 4 weeks can work but vigor drops. Replant ASAP.

Planting peonies after storage or division

Site and soil: Full sun; well-drained loam; amend heavy clay with compost and coarse grit. Avoid wet feet.

Depth: Set herbaceous peony eyes 1–2 inches below the soil surface (too deep = no blooms).
Spacing: 3 feet apart for airflow.
Watering: Water in well; keep evenly moist (not soggy) until freeze-up.
Mulch: Light winter mulch after ground freezes; pull back from crowns in spring.

Special notes for tree peonies and Itoh (intersectional)

Itoh peonies: Treat like herbaceous for depth (eyes 1–2 inches). Divide only if well-established.
Tree peonies: Avoid dividing. If relocating, plant graft union 4–6 inches below soil so the scion roots over time. If you must hold them, heel them into a protected bed rather than storing bare-root.

Mistakes to avoid (so you don’t lose blooms)

Planting too deep (most common bloom-killer)
Storing roots in sealed plastic or waterlogged media (leads to rot)

Trimming divisions too small (1 eye divisions struggle)
Spring dividing in warm zones (fall is far safer)
Overfeeding with high-nitrogen fertilizer (encourages foliage over flowers)

Our USP: The Leaf-to-Label Peony Method

One-afternoon workflow: Dig, divide, label, and plant (or properly pack) in under 60 minutes.
Visual cues, not guesswork: Use eye count + root firmness instead of calendar dates alone.
Storage matrix: 2 media options (vermiculite or peat), 1 temperature band (35–45°F), and a maximum 14-day window—so nothing dries out or rots. This simple, repeatable system protects next year’s bloom count while multiplying plants.

Action checklist (print-friendly)

Sanitize tools and labels
Cut stems to 2–3 inches
Dig wide, lift with a fork
Rinse, inspect, and divide to 3–5 eyes
Dust cuts (optional), air-dry 1–3 hours
Replant with eyes 1–2 inches deep—or pack for cool storage 3–14 days
Water in and lightly mulch after freeze-up

Want the science-backed details?

American Peony Society: Dividing Peonies (https://americanpeonysociety.org/culture/dividing-peonies/)
University of Minnesota Extension: Peonies—planting depth and care (https://extension.umn.edu/flowers/peonies)
Royal Horticultural Society: Peony planting and care (https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/peonies/planting)

FAQs

When exactly should I dig up peonies?

In fall, once foliage has yellowed or after a light frost. This timing protects next year’s bud set and minimizes stress.

Can I dig and move peonies in spring?

You can, but expect reduced blooms that year. Fall is best for quick recovery and strong flowering.

How long can peony roots stay out of the ground?

Aim for same-day replanting. If you must store, keep them cool and barely moist for 3–14 days. Longer storage risks desiccation or rot.

Do I need to divide peonies to make them bloom?

Not necessarily. Divide when clumps are overcrowded, flowering declines, or you want more plants. Healthy, uncrowded peonies can bloom for decades untouched.

What planting depth prevents bloom loss?

For herbaceous and Itoh peonies, set eyes 1–2 inches below soil. Planting deeper than 2 inches commonly suppresses blooms.

Should I fertilize after dividing?

Mix in compost at planting. In spring, consider a light, balanced, slow-release fertilizer. Avoid high-nitrogen products.

What if I live in a warm climate (Zones 8–9)?

Choose heat-tolerant cultivars, plant in morning sun with afternoon shade, maintain eyes 1–2 inches deep, and ensure excellent drainage. Some varieties need winter chill to bloom well.

How do I store tree peonies?

Don’t store bare-root if you can avoid it. Heel them into a protected bed or replant immediately. If grafted, set the graft 4–6 inches below the surface.